Sunday, January 13, 2008

Hungry in Mexico - DF in Three Days

this is the DF
Getting over the loss of our baby wasn't easy. But while we were on our flight from Cancun to Mexico City, aka D.F., D and I decided that we needed to move on from our Tulum miseries and start a new chapter on our trip.

Once we landed into DF, we headed straight to the metro and found our way to Casa Comtesse in Condesa.

After settling in, D and I headed out to the nearest Costco to find a new camera. We took a taxi out to Polanco and eventually found the Costco in a mega-plex mall. Unfortunately, all cameras were either sold out or very expensive. D and I then ran out and walked through some dark streets to find an Office Depot. But their prices were also very expensive. Afterwards, we decided to just get some groceries at Gigante market next door and call it a night with the camera shopping.

Gigante in Mexico is not like the Gigante in LA. It is huuuuge! As we walked in we were surprised to find tons of cameras at the stock and cheaper than Costco and Office Depot. After looking at several cameras, we decided to adopt a new baby and purchased a Canon SD750.

It's been a while since we've used a point and shoot. I forgot how convenient it is to sneak in my purse. So here it is. Pictures from our new baby baby.

df collage.jpg

Merry Christmas from Casa Comtesse
Casa Comtesse was a nice change from our rustic "eco" lodging in Tulum. Hardwood floors, mid-century mod furniture, hot water, shower curtains, name it. Casa Comtesse was exactly what we needed. We found this place on Although it's not a hostel, it's definitely not a corporate hotel and I highly recommend Casa Comtesse if you're ever visiting DF. There are only 3 rooms, so I think Casa Comtesse can only accommodate up to 6 people.

casa comtesse hallway


bedroom seating

singer  table

breakfast in condesa
One of the best things about Casa Comtesse is having access to a full kitchen. Dylan bought some mushrooms and ham over at Gigante so he was able to cook us a nice breakfast in the morning. Of course the boy also had to stock up on Mexican Maggi (see photo above.) I've had so much Maggi sauce on this trip that I've become addicted. I even splash some on my tortilla chips!


rabbit nose
Casa Comtesse is on the third floor of an apartment building. This bunny hangs out on the balcony...for protection I guess.

Mr. Condesa
After breakfast D and I strolled around Condesa on our way to the metro station. I love love love Condesa's street art. It's so fun. Condesa's the perfect place for the design/art conscious crowd.

Condesa Market

pig and cow


party croc

df stare down

neveria roxy
You'd think this was an ice-cream shop just walking by. Apparantly, neveria is a nieves (Mexican style ice-cream) shop. Nieves, a close cousin to helados (american ice-cream) is more icier...but just as good. I hear that Neveria Roxy is "thee" parlor to hit up in DF. We were lucky that this shop was just a block down from Casa Comtesse.

neveria roxy crowd

Hola, quiero helado de guayaba y cafe, por favor
All nieves are made fresh in nieves de garafa (large steel containers) on the premises each day. I tried guayaba (guava) and café (11 pesos/scoop). Omygosh, the flavors are so fresh and real. No fake stuff here.

la ceverceria
La Cerveceria was another joint downstairs from Casa Comtesse. This place is always packed with Condesa folks meeting up with friends over beers and munchies.


el tizoncito
El Tizoncito claims to be the inventor of the al pastor. D and I ate at El Tizoncito the first night we arrived to DF. We'd have pictures, but our camera was charging. Overall, El Tizoncito made some solid pastors. DF is a big al pastor haven. And they looooove their pastors topped with warm pineapples. El Tizoncito is like the Starbucks of al pastors. There was another one and a half blocks down. Boo.

el kaliman
After eating at El Tizoncito, we ended up at the bustling El Kaliman taqueria one block away. Now this is the place to get tacos al pastor. They slice their pastors off the spit nice and thin. Something that I've never seen before.

metro food

al pastor
Metro stations around DF have the best grub. We also saw the cheapest - 5 tacos for 10 pesos ($1). Dang!

tacos al pastor

tortas al pastor

metro entrada

metro chapultec
The next day D and I headed back on the metro to make our way towards the Zòcalo (city center) to check out Mexico City's Plaza de la Constitución. I looooove Mexico City for their awesome metro system. For 2 pesos (20 cents), you can hop on and get to any of the 175 stations...and that's including transfers! And trains arrive every 2-3 minutes!

Of course with public transportations, you get a glimpse of the crazies. D and I kept cracking up at this one "performer" on our train. This guy first announced his presence, something like, "Attention everyone! I'm about to show you a stupid human trick." Then he showed everyone his bag of "glass" and then sprinkled it onto the floor. Then homeboy started rolling around on the "glass." "Gracias, gracias," he said as he bowed.

You can also buy the most random things on the metro. My favorite was the CD man. These guys carried a boombox on their backs and played annoying reggaetón for potential buyers. D got mad when I started dancing to the reggaetón only to have the guy stand right next to us as I pulsed to the obnoxious beats. Sorry D.

Plaza de la Constitución
We didn't spend much time around the Plaza de la Constitución. The noon time sun and hoards of people made us super tired real quick. It's probably better to come in the morning. Then again, you'd have to deal with morning traffic on the metro.

diego rivera mural
I was in awe as I looked at Diego Rivera's mural at the National Palace. His depiction of Mexico's history was quite amazing. Dang Diego!

frida y diego.jpg
We wanted to head to Frida Kahlo's Blue House, but all museums are closed on Mondays. This giant paper machè doesn't do justice.

palacio postal
The Palacio Postal glows like no other post office I've ever seen.

palacio postal

We made a quick trip to Sanborns to pick up some Crema Theatrical.

crema theatrical
This ain't no La Prairie, but this old-fashion, rose-scented cream looks super stylish on any make-up counter.

Thanks for tagging along with us in DF. Hope the pictures match up to the Tulum toons you guys seem to enjoy. Make sure to check out Mexico City through Dylan's eyes.

Next up, Oaxaca!

Casa Comtesse
*update 4/09 (new location)
Benjamin Franklin 197
Colonia Hipodromo Condesa
Entre Altata y Ometusco

El Kaliman
Calle Campeche 374 (corner of Campeche & Ensenada)
Condesa DF

El Tizoncito
corner of Tamaulipas & Campeche
Condesa DF

La Cerveceria
corner of Tamaulipas & Vicente Suarez
Condesa DF

Neveria Roxy
161 Tamaulipas
Condesa DF


eatdrinknbmerry said...

Hi J, very nice write up. DF is tough to do in 3 days – there's so much going on there. One day, we'll go back ok?

daddy in a strange land said...

Why do I get the feeling that you guys could take amazing photos with a disposable film camera? :)

Beautiful pictures, great details--we wanna go! (And that mid-century modern "hostel" you rented, wow!)

Maddy said...

Great post! Mexico City is a neat place- so much to see and do! And I love your pictures.

Christine D. said...

You and D sure know how to travel! 5 tacos for $1? *shakes head in envy*

Apples and oranges...I love both your drawings and photos!

BoLA said...

Fabulous post! I SO wanna go to Mexico now!!! You and D are my travel gurus!


Anonymous said...

Hey beautiful, what 's your phone number ...ha ha...
You are still look beautiful girl.
Please feed us some more cartoons
and as always, great post. Thanks for sharing, I know you do this w/love.

One Food Guy said...

I feel like I just stepped off the plane from DF and landed back at my office. What a great trip, thanks so much for sharing!

PekoPeko said...

Dang, that street vendor food looks REALLY tasty!

Why is that 'poor countries' have such awesome street vendors and we in 'advanced countries' hardly even have street vendors?

That hotel looks totally nuts! That is a hotel or a hostel? That was ALL your room, right?


Peko Peko

marshall said...

how do i sign up for the oishiieats travel tour?!?

elmomonster said...

Just catching up...You've got a great eye, and it still amazes me what you can do with a point and shoot...What the HECK AM I DOING WRONG!?

SteamyKitchen said...

congrats on the new baby! I can't believe you guys shot those pics othe a PNS!

we need to invent a "pocket maggi" that fits on a keychain or something.

btw, come over, the voting has started and you're on!

Jeni said...

EDNBM...Contramar por favor! I can't wait.

Daddyinastrangeland...pns is tough man. We definitely have to do some post-editing with the pns shots. Anyways, you guys would love DF. Lucy would loooooove Neveria Roxy!

Thanks Maddy! I agree, I could spend a good week there and still feel like I haven't seen everything.

Christine D...I truly believe that the best food in the world are on the streets. So dang good.

Pekopeko...I agree. I think a lot of developing countries won't/can't sacrifice taste and value for ambiance. I'm not a big ambiance girl, so street food works perfectly for my tummy.

Hey Marsh! How's the inaka? Been keeping up with your blog. Please post some Hiroshima okonomiyaki and ramen!'re not doing anything wrong. D and I photoshop our shots to bring up some contrast and vignette the edges.

Steamykitchen...aaah...pocket Maggi sounds awesome! Thanks for the nomination btw!

noble pig said...

What beautiful photos! Looks like a great place to visit.

We Are Never Full said...

wow... great post. beautiful pictures. i'm always amazed at how colorful mexico is. we're planning a trip there next year and i can NOT wait. those tacos are the real deal.

amy @ we are never full

Marc @ norecipes said...

Sorry to hear about your D70, but it looks like the Canon is taking some fantastic pic's for a P&S. Makes me want to hop on a plane right now.


I can see you really like my town, thank you for writing such nice things and loving it.
Beautifull pictures by the way!

Zan said...

Hi! I´m a resident of Mexico city, and I found your blog looking a photograph of “La Cervecería”. I got to say that is one of my favourite places! It´s so damm good! As I was reading your post I realize that you visited the best places on Condesa! I can´t believe that in 3 days you´ve seen the best of the best in Condesa and DF!! Nieves Roxy...awesome! I´m also a Graphic Designer and I really liked that you apreciate the urban art manisfestations on the streets! Thanx for giving such a good description of my beloved city!!

Anonymous said...

You made me travel back on time when I was living in La Condesa, tasty, yummy , wonderful places, I used to ate at Kaliman after coming from the Disco, at Tizoncito too; for cakes La Camelia in Parque Espana the moka cake really good. Also La Flor de LIz for tamales. Do you have time to visit Belmont's Restaurant? if still there they made a tasty carne asada with nopales.


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